BIKING IN SOUTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA PAGE 4

As we speak, an SUV driven by a woman passes by.  It’s his wife, he says.  He tries to convince me to spend expresses horror about “all the Blacks”, but doesn’t add much more.  The cold on the front porch of the hotel and hunger eventually drive me inside where I order a plate of garlic shrimp for sustenance and also to warm up.  A local Chardonnay goes well with the dish.  I leave the restaurant an hour later, and find that the “hermit” is still outside.  He is consuming one more glass of beer to top up the other ones.  When I mention that I thought his wife had joined up with him, he explains that she is the town's “doctoress” and is attending to sick people.  I then ask him whether he is “the hermit”.  When he says “yes” and I wonder “how come?”, he says “because I can afford it”.  We both have a good laugh before I ride my bicycle back in the dark and cold to my cabin in the caravan park.

 So he turns round in my head, and I wonder who is the bigger fool. 

There comes the final 4.3 km climb shortly before Walpole.  Then comes a long descent, and I arrive at the local hotel/motel where I check in at around 6:30 in the afternoon.  A hot shower and a few pints of beer make my muscles relax.  Then come Kathy and Sue who make me relax even more.  Sue just separated from her husband in Adelaide and has accepted a job with Woolworth in Rockingham, where I had spent my first night south of Perth.  She has left her two children aged 13 and 17 behind in Adelaide with relatives.  She is disturbed and confused and tries to rationalize her actions.  Kathy, married with two children, accompanies Sue to help her start her new life.  Kathy and Sue, having both greatly imbibed, keep their voices a little too loud; Kathy writes me a note:  “So nice to meet you.  Give us a thought, Kathy & Sue – on the way to Perth – Hope to catch you in Europe!!!”

 So here it goes, back to bed, warm with covers; no need to pitch a tent; no need to worry about the thermal qualities of my sleeping bag.

 Total distance traveled today: 133 km; time taken: 8 hours, 40 minutes; average speed: 15.3 km/hour

 

 

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